Marina Settles InSeptember 2, 2010
From Ohiowa Impromptu: Truth to tell, Marina was proud of her yagoditsy and proud of being Russian, too. But she knew her country was doomed, so she busied herself with the task of building an outpost of Russian civilization here, in far America (also doomed, but not yet). She hung out a sign hand-lettered "Villa Yakht" in English and Russian, and promptly set about furnishing the place with all the nouveau-riche yearning of a former Rostov-on-Don penthouse dweller (Ulyanovskaya, near the Nativity Cathedral: nice view, but still Rostov). First came the Leon Bakst prints of firebirds and ballerinas, and mournful Repin watercolors of snow-covered steppes, all white, except the sky, with its hopeful tints of gray. Then, upon the mantel, she arranged in chronological order the complete works, in Russian and English, of her favorite author, Vladimir Vladimirovich Sirin, all 26 volumes, from Arlecchino to Zembla, including the three leatherbound first editions she'd come upon in Moscow in a small coffee-scented bookshop off the Arbat, one windy March afternoon in 1994, in between sudden squalls of sunlit rain...God Christ, how much she owed to Sirin! How much life–how many lives–had she lived in his pages! How many vistas had she seen, how many places near and far! Sometimes she thought half her memories had been invented by him. (Russians, you see, made up for a lot by reading good books and, even better, by writing them.)[1] Then she unpacked another memory of her Russian past: the three church icons of SS. Cyril, Constantine, and Igor that her mother had preserved in the attic of her dacha through all the horrid Soviet years. Marina was no believer, new or Old; indeed, her opinion of religion was that it was "bunch of fucking stupid fairy tales for ignorant idiot babushka with brains like old borscht," or words to that effect. Or bullshit for hypocrites who, during the Soviet era, wanted to assert Great Russian nationalism. As they said, Goditsya–molitsya, a ne goditsya–gorshki pokryvat: "If it fits, pray to it; if it doesn't, hide it under a pot." But she loved the age and beauty of the things, so she hung them in the entrance hall. There, a faint whiff of the Russian past floated in the air, and the semi-darkness was yellowishly illuminated by the diamond-shaped windowpane in the front door, evoking the mystical gloom of the long-defunct churches where the icons were born: Ryazan, Tver, Nizhny-Novgorod, Tsaritsyn on the broad blue Volga.... Melancholy oil portraits were also indispensable in any self-respecting Russian ménage. These, and such accessories as vases, crinoline dresses, and flower baskets, were plentiful, Marina discovered, at The Hip Flask, a small organic gay-run (Paul and Pol, married in La Mancha) food-slash-antique furniture emporium on the corner of Fowler Boulevard and Waistline Lane. She emerged with, in one hand, a HoleMart brown shopping bag containing a bottle of her favorite Georgian eau-de-camomile shampoo, and in the other hand a matched set of three small oil paintings bound together with twine. The oils depicted a nameless local American family of the nineteenth century; no one else was interested, so she got them for five dollars. ("Five box?" she said, incredulously. They'd sell for at least ten times that back in Rostov.) She christened them the Stranglers, not after the West Coast metallic-fusion rock-salsa-grunge band, of which she had not heard, but rather the family of that name in Georgina Fawcett-Henn's mid-Victorian masterpiece The Stranglers, of which you have not heard[2] but she had, and which is, or was, much read in Russian high schools: the Rev. Matthew Strangler and his wife Felicity and daughter Prudence. The Stranglers were a local Victorian family, the Rev. a former blacksmith (hence the book's popularity in working-class Soviet times), quietly depraved behind his Sunday pulpit, given to gin and thoughts of the naked thighs of younger people, probably girls, possibly boys; she, Felicity, demure and docile, with no suppressed fires of rebellion–true; some people, mused Marina, were quite happy to be repressed. However, the Stranglers' daughter, Prudence, later a famous suffragist, was not one of them: she led strikes, and once (1901) joined Lady Lennie Birtwhistle on a march in London. Side by side then, together again, they hung in the parlor, the minister in the middle, his womenfolk on either side, catching the rays of the dawn and half-hiding in the shadowy gloaming. They were unthreatening and time-cured, like Caucasus ham. Back in Rostov she'd had similar oils upon the walls, but they were of relatives, with life stories already fixed and static. These strangers were preferable, unless she happened upon their true biographies. But she had still other rooms to fill: the kitchen, traditional Russian heart of the house; the master bedroom; the study; the bathroom (banya). Just as in Russia, the Internet proved a useful ally, yielding odds and ends of furniture and, on BuyMe.com, a blue ceramic stove for the kitchen ($35), a do-it-yourself sauna for the banya ($20) and—best of all--a portfolio of prints by Ilya Rasputin:"Church Hill on the Don," "Village Idiots By Night," "The Vulgar Boatmen," and other treasured classics of Russian kitsch, all at $10 the lot. Art for the masses, at last! Too, she came across pristine recordings of Mandarin Oblomov conducting the Perm Philharmonic in the complete works of Ivan Kopsakov, a steal at six dollars the set of twelve. Marina bought more: the Slonim violin concerto, performed by P. Bezuhov at the XXth Party Congress, 1956; the opera "Noss," by N. N. Polovsky, courtesy of the Novosibirsk Opera and Chorus; and a large color print of the Seine passing in its leisurely fashion under the Pont des Arts, by an unknown artist named Hippolyte Maubeuge. Marina loved Paris, as have all cultured and/or moneyed Russians since time immemorial, or at least the reign of Peter. She'd been there twice, once with Khlebnatov, who, soon after they arrived ("Bah! Parizh? Bah!" was his only comment), bought a bottle of imported Russian Stariy Idyot vodka for an outrageous sum, drank it in three or four gulps, lay down on a bench in the Tuileries, and burst into tuneless renditions of protest ballads of Vysotsky. He refused to move until bodily portaged to the Russian Embassy by the Services d'Ordre, Secteur Russe. Her second visit was the year after she'd left ridiculousKhlebnatov: alone, near-penniless but radiant with hope and joy, still young, with the great city spread out below her attic room at the Hotel Casimir in the Latin Quarter near the Odeon theatre, under cottonwhite clouds floating across a royal-blue sky. Aie! And she'd never forget the darting gaze that became a focused stare, at the Cafe Flore, which, alas, she'd had to leave, argent oblige, for a plane back to damned Rostov. What was he, a poet? An artist? A salesman? A waiter-to-be? They all looked alike now, with the five o'clock shadow and mobile phones and black T-shirts. She would never know. [1] Is that so? Thanks for the tip. This isn't a Russian book, then...? Just joking. (Not.) [2] A little like that bunch of phony Irish novels, Kill something-or-other; smash hits the length and breadth of the Principality of Liechtenstein, also-rans everywhere else (especially Ireland). Just goes to show, doesn't it? (Show what? I dunno. Your guess is as good as mine. The essential quiddity of things, or something. I thought they were pretty good, myself, especially the footnotes.) Posted by Roger Boylan Bonnes Nouvelles de BagdadSeptember 2, 2010
Boris Boillon, the French ambassador to Iraq (above), in an interview with Le Figaro, Aug. 31, suggests that things might not be that dire in Iraq, and that W. might not have been totally out to lunch:
The tactic of al Qaeda, which aims to put the country in fire and blood, to rekindle the civil war, has failed. The specter of partition in Iraq is behind us. . . . The record has improved since we passed a hundred deaths per day four years ago, to ten deaths per day today. In fact, the trend reversed itself when U.S. troops began leaving the cities, in June 2009. With the final withdrawal, this trend should continue and stabilize. . . . Of course, the Iraqis say that the allied intervention of 2003 cost them dearly in lives and destruction of infrastructure, but they are aware also that it has liberated the country. The picture is therefore both positive and negative. Iraqis enjoy the fruits of democratization: the blossoming of the press, the emergence of a civil society, the free political parties, the exemplary nature of elections. These are all facts. It is absolutely necessary, when one speaks of Iraq, to reason nonideologically. Iraq is the true laboratory of democracy in the Arab world. It is there that the future of democracy in the region will play itself out. Iraq could potentially become a political model for its neighbors. And, whether one likes it or not, all this has come about thanks to the American intervention of 2003. . . . That no consensus has emerged around a [new] head of government proves that the political game occurs in Iraq and no neighboring country is able to impose its choice on Iraqi politics. Even if the door is broken open, it must be restated that the last election constituted a victory for democracy. There are not many other countries in the region where results are not known before the vote. Posted by Roger Boylan Feeling GoodSeptember 1, 2010
More encouraging words for us stragglers at the lower end of the cognitive elite, from Charles Simic: Writers
and poets are only noticed in totalitarian regimes. They are either imprisoned
and shot, or they become highly-privileged flunkies of the regime. In
democracies, they are marginal figures without any influence. Posted by Roger Boylan Summer of '89, Take TwoAugust 31, 2010
Same sunflowers, different day (I think), plus classic Citroen 2CV. Not mine, alas.
Posted by Roger Boylan Kennan on IraqAugust 30, 2010
An excerpt from George Kennan's memoirs, worth reproducing in full, subject: Iraq. (Photo: TIME Magazine cover image of Kennan.)
So much for the handicaps; what of the possibilities of service in Baghdad? A country in which man's selfishness and stupidity have ruined almost all natural productivity, where vegetation can survive only among the banks of the great rivers which traverse its deserts, where climate has become unfavorable to human health and vigor. A population unhygienic in its habits, sorely weakened and debilitated by disease, inclined to all manner of religious bigotry and fanatacism, condemned by the tenets of the most widespread faith to keep a full half of the population--namely, the feminine half--confined and excluded for the productive efforts of society by a system of indefinite house arrest, deeply affected--and bound to be affected--by the psychological habits of pastoral life, which has ever been at variance with the agricultural and industrial civilization. This people has now come just enough into contact with Western life so that its upper class has a thirst for many things which can be obtained only in the West. Suspicious and resentful of the British, they would be glad to obtain these things from us. They would be glad to use us as a foil for the British, as an escape from the restraints which the British place upon them. If we give them these things, we can perhaps enjoy a momentary favor on the part of those interested in receiving them. But to the extent that we give them, we weaken British influence, and we acquire native politicians. If they then begin to do things which are not in our interests, which affect the world situation in a ways unfavorable to our security, and if the British are unable to restrain them, we then have ourselves at least in part to blame and it is up to us to take the appropriate measures. Are we willing to bear this responsibility? I know--and every realistic American knows--that we are not. Our government is technically incapable of conceiving and promulgating a long-term consistent policy towards areas remote from its territory. Our actions in the field of foreign affairs are the convulsive reactions of politicians to an internal political life dominated by vocal minorities. Those few Americans who remember something of the pioneer life of their own country will find it hard to view these deserts without a pang of interest and excitement at the possibilities for reclamation and economic development. If trees once grew here, could they not grow again? If rains once fell, could they not again be attracted from the inexhaustible resources of nature? Could not climate be altered, disease eradicated? If they are seeking an escape from reality, such Americans may even pursue these dreams and enter upon the long and stony road which could lead to their fruition. But if they are willing to recall the sad state of soil conservation in their own country, the vast amount of social improvement to be accomplished at home, and the inevitable limitations on the efficacy of our type of democracy in the field of foreign affairs--then they will restrain their excitement at the silent, expectant possibilities in the Middle Eastern deserts, and will return, like disappointed but dutiful children, to the sad deficiencies and problems of their native land.
Posted by Roger Boylan Summer of '89August 29, 2010
Back from Dallas to discover in my e-mailbox a repository of photographs from my old pal Dave Mackie, who now lives in Bradford, Yorkshire, for his sins. It was at the tumbledown farm he was renting in the Dordogne, in the southwest of France, that I spent the glorious summer of 1989, the two hundredth anniversary of the French Revolution, which was celebrated in song and dance and wine and more wine. All that's 21 years gone now, and the hirsute would-be bard contemplating the sunflowers is a great deal stouter, and grayer, and doesn't cut quite the dash his '89 incarnation hoped he would. But all in all he's not done too badly.
We'll have a little photo album of the Summer of '89 up here, soon. Posted by Roger Boylan The Big DAugust 27, 2010
Barely a rut in the prairie in 1850, Dallasis now the center of a vast urban area of more than 6 million. I'm here with my wife to escort our daughter into the next stage of her life, neo-adulthood, as defined by the college years. Her future alma mater is a quiet campus on the leafy outskirts of the metropolis, within earshot of DFW Airport and, paradoxically, the chime of church bells. Prosperity, technology, dynamism, architecture: all are on display here, and life moves at a pace that far out-accelerates the train de vie in our more southern part of Texas. In fact, if nobody's nicknamed Dallas "the Southwestern Chicago," they've missed a bet. There's an echo of the Windy City here. Even some of the sprawling lower middle-class neighborhoods, through one of which I took my sweaty morning constitutional this a.m., remind me of Chicago: small, neat houses, postage-stamp lawns, American flags, old ladies watering plants, etc. Long staight avenues, corner convenience stores, Czech names here, Mexican there. And, need I add, the traffic proceeds with a Chicagoan frenzy, commuters whipped into an unwilling stampede the minute they merge onto the freeways, the speed limits a bad joke and a perfect example of a poor law poorly enforced.
But it's now my girl's new home and, as such, one of mine. Posted by Roger Boylan A Most Beautiful Film: Barry Lyndon (1975)August 25, 2010
I just finished watching, for about the eighth time, Stanley Kubrick's Barry Lyndon, based on Thackeray's novel. It's Kubrick's masterpiece, if not Thackeray's; I found the novel dry and second-rate, but the film deepens and seems more beautiful every time I watch it. It's the finest picaresque epic in film, better--more melancholy, lovelier to look at--even than Tom Jones. And Kubrick's genius for matching music to image is well-known; just think of 2001 and A Clockwork Orange. But in Barry Lyndon he surpassed himself, with Handel's stately, grim Sarabande and Schubert's utterly haunting Trio Opus 100. This is Art, across the board.
And, of course, there's also the traditional Irish ballad "Women of Ireland" (Ta Bann Na hEireann) on the soundtrack, played by The Chieftains. Further memories assault me here. Sometime in the late '60s I attended a performance at the Gaiety Theatre in Dublin by the great bandleader and folk-music revivalist Sean O Riada and his band Ceoltóirí Chualann, at which event a young gal whose name I forget (but she had long black hair) sang this ballad, and several others. A wonderful recording called, logically, Sean O Riada at the Gaiety (Sean O Riada Sa Gaiety), resulted from that concert. I owned it until recently. (Shut up now, Memory.) Posted by Roger Boylan Dispatches from the Drinking FrontAugust 24, 2010
Most Expensive Cocktail in the World Located
BELFAST—Before you balk at your next bar tab, feel fortunate you didn’t stumble into the Merchant Hotel in Belfast, Northern Ireland. The upscale hotel’s bar is the home of the $1400 Mai Tai, the most expensive cocktail in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records. “It’s all about the rum,” swears manager Sean Muldoon, referring to the J. Wray & Nephew 17-year-old Jamaican rum used in the cocktail, the exact same liquor “Trader” Vic Bergeron used to create the original Mai Tai in 1944. According to Muldoon, there are only six surviving bottles of the rum and the Merchant’s bottle is the only one available to the general public. (Hat tip: Modern Drunkard Magazine, the magazine for the dynamic drunk.) Posted by Roger Boylan Long Ago and Far AwayAugust 23, 2010
If you turned the other way while passing the Caran D'Ache pencil factory, this is what you saw: the Avenue de Frontenex...Note the looming purplish mass of the Jura mountains, above the rooftops. They, and the trees, hint at early spring. I can almost feel the cool breeze and smell the pencil lead behind me...this photo was taken in 1967 or thereabouts, my halcyon days as a Genevese schoolboy.
And to think that once I was so eager to leave that city that I'd have gone anywhere. (And did: the Hellenic-American Institute in Athens.) Now I'd give anything to move back. But my Geneva dwells in the long-ago. And here it is. Posted by Roger Boylan | Categories |
Marina Settles InSeptember 2, 2010
Bonnes Nouvelles de BagdadSeptember 2, 2010
Feeling GoodSeptember 1, 2010
Summer of '89, Take TwoAugust 31, 2010
Kennan on IraqAugust 30, 2010
Summer of '89August 29, 2010
The Big DAugust 27, 2010
A Most Beautiful Film: Barry Lyndon (1975)August 25, 2010
Dispatches from the Drinking FrontAugust 24, 2010
Long Ago and Far AwayAugust 23, 2010
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